Did you know that James Beard, “America’s first foodie,” the leading U.S. culinary figure during his lifetime, and “The Dean of American Cuisine,” once dined in Jacksonville? And no, it was not at the Jacksonville Inn or one of the town’s other popular restaurants we’re familiar with today. This was during the 1960s and the “restaurant” was actually a small diner built around a circus wagon. It stood at the corner of California and 3rd streets where the replica of Beekman’s Express Office now houses Umi Sushi.
Called the Kottage Kitchen, it was owned and operated by Clifford and Mary Cowan. “Aunt Mary” was known for her good food, and the Kottage Kitchen was “the place to eat,” frequented by the likes of the sheriff and the mayor. Of course, it may also have been about the only “restaurant” in town….
James Beard dined there as the guest of Robbie Collins, the individual who was the key “mover and shaker” in preserving and restoring the town’s historic buildings and establishing Jacksonville’s “National Historic Landmark District.” Beard “loved” the Kottage Kitchen’s food and gave it a positive review, putting it “on the map.” [Collins later confided that Beard was quite drunk at the time.]
After Clifford died, Collins bought the corner lot and let Mary keep on cooking. When the Health Department showed up one day, intent on closing the Kottage Kitchen, Collins pleaded for one more year and then Mary could retire. The Health Department relented, and Mary operated her diner for another 12 months. When she retired, the entire town held a parade to honor “Mary Sunshine”!